Arthur R.

Arthur Redman has spent the past seven years with his hands in the soil, first as a landscape gardener and now as a writer focused on plants, growing, and garden spaces. Based in Somerset, he writes with a practical eye and a quiet respect for the changing seasons. When he's not tending to his own unruly plot, he's reading about old planting methods or chasing down overlooked native species. His work is rooted in what actually works in UK gardens, not just what looks good on a mood board.

Rare Fruit Trees You Can Grow At Home in the UK

I’ve been mad about growing my own food for ages, and there’s a proper thrill in getting rare fruit trees to flourish in the UK’s moody weather. These five unusual trees will bring a bit of magic to your garden, each with its own personality, challenges, and cracking rewards. They’re not your bog-standard apples or pears, and that’s what makes them so exciting.

1. Medlar (Mespilus germanica)

Credit: Pexels

Medlars are like the quirky, unsung heroes of fruit. These small, apple-shaped fruits need to soften through a process called bletting before you can eat them, turning into a rich, almost date-like treat. Pop them in a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and they’ll take most UK winters in their stride.

Their low, gnarled trees have a rustic, storybook vibe that adds character to any garden. Medlar jelly is a revelation, tart and spiced, perfect with a cheeseboard or spread on toast. You could also try medlar wine or chutney if you’re feeling creative. They’re low-maintenance, but you’ll need to be patient while they settle in.

2. Quince (Cydonia oblonga)

Quinces are stealing the show these days, and I get why. Their golden, pear-like fruits smell like a tropical getaway, but they’re hard as nails raw and need cooking to unlock their charm. Turn them into fragrant jams, jellies, or membrillo to level up your charcuterie game. They love a sheltered, sunny corner with loamy soil and can handle frost like champs.

The spring blossoms, soft pink and delicate, are a proper treat for the eyes. Quinces take a few years to start fruiting, so don’t hold your breath for a quick harvest, but when they deliver, you’ll have plenty for pies or even a sneaky addition to apple crumbles for extra zing.

3. Mulberry (Morus nigra)

Mulberry (Morus nigra)

Mulberries are a nightmare to find fresh in shops, so growing your own feels like a proper win. Go for the black mulberry in the UK; its dark, juicy berries taste like a mix of blackberries and figs, with a sweetness that’s hard to beat. They need a warm, south-facing spot and loads of space, as they can grow into proper trees over time.

You’ll need patience, as they can take five years or more to fruit, but once they do, you’ll be drowning in berries for tarts, fresh eating, or even mulberry gin. The downside? Birds are as obsessed with them as I am, so netting might be your best mate. The trees’ broad leaves also make a cracking shady spot for a garden bench.

4. Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas)

Credit: Lazaregagnidze

Cornelian cherries aren’t cherries at all but dogwoods, with tart, ruby-red fruits that are brilliant for cordials, sauces, or a cheeky homemade vodka infusion. These trees are tough as old boots, shrugging off cold snaps and thriving in most soils, from clay to chalk. Their early spring flowers, bright yellow and delicate, are a proper pick-me-up after winter.

Plant them where you can enjoy the view, and pick the berries in late summer. They’re dead easy to look after, perfect for beginners. A pal uses the fruit for a tangy barbecue glaze that’s unreal on grilled chicken. Plus, their compact size makes them a great fit for smaller gardens.

5. Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides)

Credit: Arthur Chapman

Sea buckthorn is a bit of a wild card. Its bright orange berries are packed with vitamin C and have a sharp, citrusy kick, ideal for juices, preserves, or even skincare experiments if you’re feeling posh. This shrub loves harsh conditions, sandy soil, full sun, and a bit of wind, so it’s perfect for coastal gardens.

It’s also nitrogen-fixing, meaning it improves rubbish soil over time. The catch? Harvesting is a pain thanks to vicious thorns, so grab some thick gloves. Give it room to spread, and you’ll have a steady supply.

Tips for Success

These trees might sound fancy, but they’re tougher than they look. Check your soil type and drainage before planting; most prefer well-drained spots but aren’t too picky. Mulch around the base to keep weeds away and moisture in, especially during our damp UK springs.

Pruning is minimal, but a light trim in late winter keeps things neat. If you’re in a frosty area, wrap young trees in horticultural fleece during harsh winters. Don’t expect instant results, these are slow growers, but the wait pays off when you’re scoffing homegrown medlar jelly or mulberry pie. If you’re new to this, start with a cornelian cherry or quince for an easier ride.

Peace Lily Blooms Green? Here’s What It Means

So, your peace lily’s lovely white blooms have gone a bit green, and you’re wondering what’s up? I’ve been there: my peace lily, sat on my kitchen shelf, did the same, and I was proper puzzled. Turns out, it’s usually no big deal, just the plant doing its thing or reacting to its surroundings.

What’s Causing the Green Blooms?

Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum) are known for their lush leaves and stunning white “flowers”: those white bits are actually special leaf bracts called spathes, wrapping around a spike of tiny flowers called a spadix. When they go green, here’s what might be happening:

1. It’s Just Getting On a Bit

As peace lily blooms age, they naturally shift from white to green: it’s like the plant’s version of going grey. The green comes from chlorophyll kicking in as the spathe starts acting more like a leaf again, soaking up light for photosynthesis. If your plant’s otherwise happy, glossy leaves, no wilting, it’s likely just this natural ageing process.

2. Too Much Sun

Peace lilies are proper shade-lovers, happy in low to medium indirect light, like under a forest canopy in the wild. If yours is basking in too much bright light, especially direct sunlight, it might crank up the chlorophyll, turning the spathes green. I stuck mine near a south-facing window once, thinking it’d thrive, and boom: green blooms in days.

3. Baby Blooms

New spathes sometimes pop out with a greenish tinge before they turn fully white. If the green is on a fresh bloom, give it a week or two: it might just need time to mature into that classic white look.

4. Nutrient Wobbles

Peace lilies aren’t greedy for fertiliser, but if they’re short on nutrients like potassium or phosphorus, which help with flowering, the spathes might stay green. Too much nitrogen, on the other hand, can make the plant focus on leaves over blooms, leading to greener spathes. I learned this when I got a bit overzealous with plant food!

5. It’s Feeling Stressed

Changes in temperature, humidity, or watering can stress your peace lily, affecting its blooms. Dry air, think winter radiators, or overwatering can make the plant prioritise survival over pretty white spathes, resulting in a green tint. My peace lily went through a phase during a chilly, dry spell, and its blooms leaned green until I sorted the humidity.

Should You Worry About Green Blooms?

Most of the time, green blooms are no big deal. If your peace lily’s leaves are perky, it’s putting out new growth, and there are no signs of trouble like yellowing or browning, you’re probably fine: it’s just rocking a different vibe. But if the green blooms come with droopy leaves, soggy soil, or brown tips, check for issues like overwatering or pests.

How to Keep Those Blooms White

If you’re set on getting those crisp white spathes back, here’s what’s worked for me:

  • Sort the Light: Shift your peace lily to a spot with bright, indirect light: a north or east-facing windowsill is perfect. If it’s getting scorched by direct sun, move it back or use a sheer curtain to soften the rays.

  • Water Wisely: Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. I check mine by poking a finger into the top inch of soil: if it’s dry, I water. Make sure the pot has drainage holes, and I use filtered water since mine seems fussy about tap water’s chlorine.

  • Feed Lightly: I give mine a balanced liquid fertiliser, like 20-20-20, diluted to half strength every couple of months in spring and summer. Skip feeding in autumn and winter when it’s having a rest.

  • Up the Humidity: Peace lilies love a bit of moisture in the air. I mist mine every few days or keep a tray of water with pebbles nearby: grouping it with other plants helps, too.

  • Snip Old Blooms: If the green spathes look past their prime, I cut them off at the base with clean scissors: it seems to nudge the plant to focus on new, potentially whiter blooms.

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