You’re staring at your tired old tiled floor, wondering if there’s a simpler way to freshen up the space without ripping everything out. Vinyl flooring pops into your head. It’s popular, practical, and looks pretty sharp these days. But here’s the big question: can vinyl flooring go straight over tile?
The short answer is yes, it usually can. But like with most home improvement ideas, it’s not always black and white. There are a few checks and steps involved to make sure the final result looks good and holds up over time.
First, Why Even Consider Laying Vinyl Over Tile?
Pulling up tile is no joke. It’s dusty, noisy, and usually involves a fair bit of mess. If the tiles are stuck down solidly and the layout underneath is still in good shape, putting vinyl on top is a clever workaround. It can save you a lot of time, not to mention money.
Plus, modern vinyl flooring comes in a range of styles, from wood-look planks to stone-effect tiles. You get a clean, updated look without turning your house into a building site for days.
Start by Checking the Condition of the Tile
Here’s the deal: your current tile floor needs to be solid. That means no loose tiles, no hollow-sounding ones, and no major cracks. If the tiles are shifting under your feet or some are missing, you’ll have problems no matter what you put on top.
It’s also worth checking if the floor is level. Vinyl flooring, especially the click-together kind, doesn’t play well with bumpy surfaces. You don’t need it to be laser-flat, but major dips or raised edges can mess things up. If you slide your hand across the floor and feel sharp ridges or dips, those need sorting first.
What Type of Vinyl Flooring Are We Talking About?
There are a couple of kinds of vinyl flooring, and not all behave the same.
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Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) or Tile (LVT): These are the thicker, click-lock or glue-down types. They’re more forgiving of slight imperfections underneath, and they can look very realistic.
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Sheet Vinyl: This is usually glued down and comes in rolls. It’s more flexible but less forgiving. If your tile has deep grout lines or uneven bits, they might show through.
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Peel-and-stick Vinyl Tiles: These work better on smooth, even surfaces. They can highlight flaws underneath, so you’d need to prep the tile carefully.
Each one has different installation needs, so your choice will depend on your existing floor and what kind of finish you’re after.
Mind the Grout Lines
This is a big one. Old tile floors usually have noticeable grout lines, and if they’re deep, they can telegraph through the vinyl over time. That’s especially true with thinner sheet vinyl or peel-and-stick tiles. To fix that, you’ll want to skim over the tile with a floor levelling compound. It sounds fancy, but it’s just a type of filler that smooths out the surface.
You don’t have to coat the whole floor with a thick layer. Just enough to fill in the low spots. Once it dries, give it a light sanding to knock down any high points, and you’re good to go. It’s a bit of extra effort, but it makes a huge difference in how the floor looks and lasts.
Height Matters
Adding another layer to your floor raises the height, even if it’s just a few millimetres. That might not sound like much, but it can affect things like doors, baseboards, and appliances.
Before installing anything, check the clearance on your doors, especially if they swing inwards over the floor. You might need to trim the bottom slightly. And for kitchens, make sure your fridge or dishwasher still fits properly under the counter.
Moisture and Subfloor Stability
While most tile floors in homes are fine, if you’re working in a basement or bathroom, it’s worth thinking about moisture. Vinyl is waterproof, but what’s underneath matters too.
Tile usually provides a good moisture barrier, but if you’ve had any signs of damp or leaks, now’s the time to sort them. If there’s moisture trapped underneath, it could cause problems down the line like mould or lifting edges.
Also, check that the subfloor underneath the tile (usually concrete or wood) is solid and not flexing. A moving base will eventually cause even the best vinyl to shift or separate.
How to Actually Install It
Once you’ve prepped the surface, installation is pretty straightforward.
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Click-lock LVP/LVT: These snap together and “float” over the surface. No glue needed, but you’ll want an underlay in many cases, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. That helps with sound and gives a bit of cushion.
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Glue-down types: These require adhesive, and you’ll want to work section by section. It’s a bit more labour-intensive but gives a sturdy finish.
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Peel-and-stick tiles: Clean the tile thoroughly before laying these, or they won’t stick properly. You can use a degreaser or floor prep solution. Also, make sure the room isn’t too cold. Vinyl adhesives tend to work better at warmer temperatures.
Take your time with the layout. Start in the centre or a visible wall, so you don’t end up with tiny slivers of vinyl along the edges. And always check the manufacturer’s guide for spacing and expansion gaps.
A Few Things to Keep in Mind
Vinyl flooring is fairly low-maintenance, but it’s not invincible. Dropping heavy tools or dragging furniture can scratch or dent it. Use furniture pads where needed, and try not to soak it when cleaning. Just a damp mop will do.
Also, some cheaper vinyl options can discolour if exposed to a lot of direct sunlight. If your tiled area gets loads of sun, think about UV protection on the windows or choosing a vinyl with good fade resistance.
