Arthur R.

Arthur Redman has spent the past seven years with his hands in the soil, first as a landscape gardener and now as a writer focused on plants, growing, and garden spaces. Based in Somerset, he writes with a practical eye and a quiet respect for the changing seasons. When he's not tending to his own unruly plot, he's reading about old planting methods or chasing down overlooked native species. His work is rooted in what actually works in UK gardens, not just what looks good on a mood board.

When Is the Best Time to Plant Lavender in the UK?

Lavender is one of those plants that just makes sense in a garden. It smells incredible, looks beautiful, and once it’s established, it’s surprisingly low maintenance. But if you want to grow it successfully, timing is everything.

Plant it at the wrong time, and you could end up with weak, struggling plants that never quite thrive. Get it right, though, and you’ll have a garden filled with fragrant blooms that attract bees and butterflies all summer long.

Picking the Perfect Time

The best time to plant lavender in the UK is spring, ideally between March and May. This gives the plants plenty of time to establish roots before the colder months roll in. If you plant too early, late frosts can damage young plants. Too late, and they might not have enough time to get settled before winter.

Autumn planting is possible too—September and early October can work well, especially in milder areas. But there’s a risk. If the weather turns cold too quickly, young plants might not get a strong enough start, leaving them vulnerable to frost and excessive dampness over winter.

Why Spring Works Best

Spring is the sweet spot because the soil is starting to warm up, and the worst of the frost is usually behind you. The longer, sunnier days help lavender establish itself before it has to deal with the challenges of winter. By the time temperatures drop, your plants will be strong enough to handle the cold.

It’s also easier to care for young lavender in spring. You can keep an eye on watering, make sure they’re not sitting in soggy soil, and help them settle in without the extremes of summer heat or winter damp slowing them down.

What About Summer?

It’s tempting to pop a few lavender plants into the ground in the middle of summer, especially when garden centres are full of blooming, fragrant plants. While it’s not impossible to plant lavender in summer, it’s definitely not ideal.

The heat can make it harder for young plants to establish roots, and you’ll need to water them more often to keep them from drying out. If you do plant in summer, try to do it on a cooler day and give them plenty of water until they’ve settled in.

Avoiding Winter Planting

Winter is a definite no-go for planting lavender. The combination of cold temperatures and wet soil can quickly lead to root rot, and young plants are unlikely to survive the season. If you buy lavender in winter, it’s best to keep it in pots in a sheltered spot until the weather improves.

Picking the Right Spot

Timing matters, but so does location. Lavender needs plenty of sun—at least six hours a day—so choose a bright, well-drained spot. If your garden has heavy clay soil, consider planting lavender in raised beds or containers with free-draining compost to prevent waterlogging.

Preparing the Soil

Lavender hates wet feet. If your soil holds onto water, mix in some sand or grit to improve drainage. Adding a bit of garden lime can also help if your soil is on the acidic side, as lavender prefers a slightly alkaline environment.

Caring for Young Plants

Once you’ve planted your lavender at the right time, it’s all about giving it a good start. Water regularly for the first few weeks, but don’t overdo it—lavender prefers dry conditions. A little liquid seaweed feed can help encourage root growth, but after the first few months, it won’t need much in the way of feeding.

Pruning for Success

To keep your lavender healthy and encourage plenty of flowers, give it a light prune after flowering. Cutting back about a third of the plant stops it from getting too woody and helps it stay neat and productive. Just be careful not to cut into the old, woody stems, as these don’t always regrow.

How to Clean Greenhouse Glass Properly (Without Streaks!)

Keeping your greenhouse glass clean isn’t just about making it look nice. It actually helps your plants grow better by letting in more sunlight. Over time, dirt, algae, and grime build up, blocking the light your plants need. Cleaning the glass properly makes a real difference, and if you keep up with it, it doesn’t have to be a massive chore.

Choosing the Right Time to Clean

You don’t want to clean your greenhouse on a hot, sunny day. The heat will dry the cleaning solution too fast, leaving streaks and making the job harder than it needs to be. A mild, cloudy day is ideal. If that’s not possible, aim for early morning or late afternoon when the sun isn’t too strong.

What You’ll Need

Before you get started, gather your supplies. Here’s what works best:

  • A bucket of warm, soapy water (mild detergent or a dedicated greenhouse cleaner)
  • A soft sponge or cloth
  • A squeegee for streak-free results
  • A soft-bristled brush for stubborn dirt
  • White vinegar or a mix of water and baking soda for tougher stains
  • A garden hose or a watering can with clean water for rinsing
  • Rubber gloves if you have sensitive skin

Avoid using anything too abrasive, like wire brushes or rough sponges, as these can scratch the glass and make it easier for dirt to build up in the future.

Cleaning the Outside of the Greenhouse

Start by giving the glass a good rinse with a hose or a bucket of water. This removes loose dirt and stops you from just smearing it around when you start scrubbing. Next, dip your sponge or cloth into the soapy water and wipe down the glass in circular motions. If you notice any tough spots, use your soft-bristled brush or apply a bit of white vinegar to break down the grime.

Once you’ve cleaned all the glass panels, rinse everything thoroughly with clean water. You don’t want any soap residue left behind, as it can attract more dirt. Use a squeegee to remove excess water, helping to prevent streaks. If you don’t have a squeegee, a dry, lint-free cloth will do the job.

Cleaning the Inside of the Greenhouse

The inside of the glass can get just as dirty as the outside, especially with condensation and algae buildup. You’ll need to be a bit more careful here since you don’t want dirty water dripping onto your plants.

Move any pots or trays away from the glass before you start. Use the same cleaning method as outside wipe down with soapy water, scrub stubborn areas, and rinse thoroughly. If you have any ventilation windows, give those a good clean too, as dust and grime tend to collect around the edges.

Dealing with Algae and Mould

If you spot green or black patches, that’s likely algae or mould. These love damp conditions and can spread quickly if left unchecked. White vinegar works well for removing algae, while a mix of water and baking soda can tackle mould. Apply either solution with a cloth or sponge, scrub gently, then rinse off.

To help prevent algae from coming back, make sure your greenhouse is well-ventilated. Keeping the interior dry reduces the chance of mould and algae taking hold.

Cleaning the Frame

The glass isn’t the only part that gets dirty. The greenhouse frame, whether it’s wood, metal, or plastic, also needs attention. Wipe it down with soapy water and a sponge, making sure to get into the corners where dirt collects. If you notice any rust on a metal frame, use a rust remover or fine sandpaper to clean it up before it spreads.

Regular Maintenance

You don’t have to deep clean your greenhouse every week, but regular upkeep makes the job much easier. A quick wipe-down every few weeks helps keep algae and dirt from building up. Checking after heavy rain or storms is also a good idea, as splattered mud and debris can stick to the glass.

What to Avoid

It’s tempting to use pressure washers, but they can be too strong and may damage seals or force water into joints where it shouldn’t go. Harsh chemicals like bleach can also be a bad idea, as they might harm your plants or degrade the greenhouse materials over time.

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