There’s something quite special about a beech hedge. It’s tidy but not too formal, tough but still lovely to look at, and keeps its coppery leaves through winter, which adds a bit of warmth when everything else looks a bit grey. If you’ve been toying with the idea of planting one, you’re definitely not alone. They’re a popular choice across the UK for good reason. Let’s go through it together, step by step, like a friend giving you a hand in the garden.
First off: Why choose beech?
Fagus sylvatica, which is the proper name for beech, is brilliant for hedging. In spring and summer, it has fresh, green leaves that catch the light beautifully. Then, come autumn, it turns a rich bronze. The real magic, though, is that the dead leaves don’t all drop. Instead, they stay put, giving you some privacy through the colder months. If you’re after a hedge that offers interest year-round, beech ticks the box.
Also, beech is easy to shape. It responds well to trimming, and with a bit of effort, you can get a neat, dense hedge. It’s not too fussy about soil, either, as long as it’s not waterlogged.
What you’ll need before you get started
Before planting, gather a few things:
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Bare-root or pot-grown beech plants (aim for 2 to 4 per metre, depending on how dense you want it)
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A spade or fork
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Compost or well-rotted manure (not essential, but helpful)
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Gardening gloves (those beech twigs can be a bit scratchy)
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A measuring tape or string line to keep things straight
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Watering can or hose
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Mulch (like bark chippings or leaf mould)
Choosing the right time
Timing does matter. You’ll want to plant beech between November and March, which is when the plants are dormant. That makes it easier for them to settle in without being under stress from heat or active growth.
Bare-root plants are cheaper and ideal for this kind of hedge, but they must be planted while dormant. Pot-grown beech can go in at other times of the year, but you’ll need to water them more and baby them a bit.
Preparing the ground
This bit might not be the most exciting, but it makes all the difference.
Start by digging a trench. It should be about 30cm wide and 30cm deep. If you’re planting a long hedge, mark it out with a string line first nothing worse than a wonky hedge unless you’re going for that look.
Break up the soil at the bottom of the trench using a fork. If the soil’s heavy clay, mix in a bit of compost or sharp sand to help with drainage. Beech doesn’t love sitting in soggy soil. A bit of compost or rotted manure also gives the young plants a head start, but don’t go overboard.
If your ground is compacted or hasn’t been dug in years, this is the time to give it a good going-over. Looser soil helps roots spread out properly.
Spacing it out
Spacing depends a bit on how thick and bushy you want your hedge. For a single row, go for 3 plants per metre. If you want a really dense hedge, you can plant in a staggered double row – that’s 5 plants per metre, arranged in a zig-zag.
Just lay them out along the trench before planting. Step back and have a look – once they’re in, it’s a pain to move them.
Getting them in the ground
Hold each plant upright, with the base of the stem roughly level with the surface of the soil. You don’t want to bury the stem too deep – look for the change in colour near the base of the plant; that’s your guide.
Backfill the trench with soil, gently firming it around the roots as you go. Not stomping it in with full force – just enough to remove air pockets and keep the plant steady. Then give the whole hedge a generous watering. Even if it’s raining, it helps settle the soil.
If you’re planting bare-root plants and the roots look a bit dry, soak them in a bucket of water for an hour or two before planting. It really helps.
Mulching and aftercare
Once your beech plants are in, pop a layer of mulch along the base. That keeps moisture in, suppresses weeds, and gives the young plants a bit of breathing space. Just make sure the mulch doesn’t touch the stems – you don’t want rot setting in.
Water the hedge regularly for the first year, especially in dry spells. And keep the area around the base weed-free. Those young plants are putting all their energy into growing roots, so they don’t want to be fighting with nettles or brambles.
First trim? Hold off a bit
Beech hedges don’t need trimming straight away. In fact, it’s better to let them settle for the first growing season. The following winter (after a full season of growth), you can start shaping it.
A light trim will encourage bushiness. Trim the sides more than the top at first. You’re aiming to get that nice, thick structure from the base up. Eventually, once it’s at the height you want, you can start shaping the top.
Keep in mind, if you want it really formal, you’ll need to trim once or twice a year. If you like it a bit more relaxed, once a year in late summer should do.
What if things go wrong?
Don’t panic if a few plants look a bit limp or lose more leaves than expected. Bare-root plants especially can look a bit sad to start with. Give them time. As long as the stems are still green and flexible, they’re alive and should bounce back.
If a plant dies completely, it’s not the end of the world. Just replace it the following winter. Over time, the hedge will fill in.